RICK E. MARTIN/McClatchy News Service

Remember when party food meant your mom proudly setting out a Pyrex dish or hollowed-out sourdough round filled with gooey, warm dip, heavy on the mayo and cream cheese?

It may seem so yesterday. It is so not. All hot dips need are a modern flourish with gourmet ingredients such as feta cheese, dried porcini, kalamata olives and fresh Dungeness crab.

A fondue pot, warming tray or small chafing dish keeps these dips warm. But if you don't have any of those, don't worry. Just bring out the hot dip in a warmed serving dish after most of your guests have arrived, and let them know the time to dig in is now.

Soak dried mushrooms in hot water in a small bowl until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain in a sieve lined with moistened paper towels, reserving soaking liquid. Coarsely chop mushrooms.

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they give off their liquid, about 5 minutes. Add chopped soaked mushrooms and their liquid and cook until liquid evaporates and mushrooms begin to brown, about 7 minutes. Stir in shallots and thyme, and cook until shallots are softened, about 1 minute.

Meanwhile, bring broth and milk to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat.

Sprinkle mushrooms with the flour, mixing well. Reduce heat to low and stir to cook the flour without browning, about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in hot broth mixture. Bring to a simmer and cook until the dip is lightly thickened and no raw flour taste remains, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in Swiss and Parmesan cheeses until melted. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a heat-proof serving dish and serve hot with crudités. Makes 31/2 cups.

SOURCE: Dip it!

Preheat broiler.

Cut cheese into ½ -inch-thick slices and arrange in 1 layer in a large flameproof baking dish, then sprinkle with oregano and black pepper. Stir together roasted peppers, olives and oil in a small bowl, then spoon mixture over and around cheese.

Broil 2 to 4 inches from heat until edges of cheese are golden, about 5 minutes.

Garnish with chopped parsley, and serve with lemon wedges and toasted pita wedges or crusty bread. Dip makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 239 (80% fat) Fat 21 g (10 g sat) Cholesterol 51 mg Sodium 802 mg No fiber Carbohydrates 4 g Protein 8 g

SOURCE: The Best of 'Gourmet,' 20th Anniversary Edition, from the editors of Gourmet

Preheat oven to 375 F. Mix onion flakes, milk, horseradish, Worcestershire and hot sauce. Add softened cream cheese; mix well. Stir in crab.

Spread in a small, buttered, ovenproof dish and sprinkle with almonds. Bake for 15 minutes or until bubbly and brown. Serve warm with crackers or toasted brioche. Makes 10 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 99 (74% fat) Fat 8 g (5 g sat) Cholesterol 41 mg Sodium 116 mg

No fiber Carbohydrates 1 g Protein 5 g