The chili recipe used at Tolbert's Restaurant in Grapevine is somewhat different from this old-fashioned dish, described by Frank X. Tolbert in his book A Bowl of Red.

His daughter, restaurateur Kathleen Tolbert Ryan, says they use chili powder and a little tomato sauce – but the precise mix of Tolbert's chili is a well-guarded family secret.

To create a homemade version of Frank's Frito Chili Pie, make a batch of chili, serve with shredded cheese (and onions if desired), and tip a small bag of Fritos on top of each serving.

Cook suet until fat is rendered. Remove suet. Sear meat in fat in 2 or 3 batches. (Use oil for lower cholesterol, less grease.)

Place meat in large pot with ancho chile pepper pods and as much pepper liquid as needed to keep meat from burning (about 2 inches of water above the meat).

Bring to boil, then simmer for 30 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except masa and extra anchos. Simmer 45 minutes more, covered. Stir only occasionally. Skim off grease.

Taste and adjust seasonings. If not hot enough to suit you, add extra ancho pods that have been stemmed and seeded but not chopped. Add masa harina to thicken liquid. Simmer another 30 minutes until meat is tender. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Wick Fowler made his prize-winning chili basically the same way, but he did not use suet, and he added 15 ounces of tomato sauce. He never served chili the day it was made, but kept it refrigerated overnight and skimmed off grease the next day, then added masa harina upon heating the chili if it was too thin. Wick Fowler's 2-Alarm Chili Kit is sold in most supermarkets.

PER SERVING: Calories 212 (38% fat) Fat 9 g (2 g sat) Protein 28 g Cholesterol 68 mg Sodium 979 mg Fiber 2 g Carbohydrates 5 g

SOURCE: The Original Terlingua Championship Chili Cook-off Inc.; recipe from A Bowl of Red by Frank X. Tolbert