This month, the panel sampled wines with smoked turkey, and discovered a Texas product that left us smitten: Greenberg Smoked Turkeys, from Tyler. We ordered ours by mail, only to learn that they're also a special Thanksgiving offering at Central Market – the first retail store to sell them in the 70-year history of Greenberg Smoked Turkeys Inc.

COURTNEY PERRY/DMN

Which wines would be assertive enough to stand up to a smoked turkey?

Bored with the classic oven-roasted bird, we sensed that smoke and spice would jazz things up, making turkey a livelier match for wine. Boy, did it ever! The Greenberg was one of the most flavorful turkeys we've eaten, with a rich, moist texture to boot.

Flavor aside, buying a fully cooked turkey frees you up to concentrate on the side dishes. Buttered green beans and mashed potatoes rounded out our plates, but undoubtedly you'll have more, and more elaborate, sides. Although the smoked turkey doesn't need gravy, we passed some around for those who can't fathom the holiday meal without it.

We sampled 10 reds, three whites and two sparkling rosés, in search of wines that best complement such an assertively flavored turkey. Although our price limit was $20, we managed to find some supervalue wines; three of our picks sell for less than $12. For hosts who want one-stop shopping, there's good news: We found four of our selections in supermarkets, as well as at most liquor stores.

Here's what we learned from this tasting:

•Red wines with rich, ripe fruit handled the smoke well. A touch of spiciness in these reds complemented the spice in the turkey. We favored medium-bodied reds.

•Two pinot noirs made our list (one of them as a panel favorite), but a third was dismissed as too lean in flavor.

•A classic California chardonnay with a touch of oak was the panel favorite for whites. A judicious amount of oak complements the smokiness of the turkey.

•As much as we love a good sparkling rosé, its flavors clash with the turkey's smoky, peppery flavor. One panelist suggested that a dry, crisp blanc de blanc might make a better sparkling match than the two rosés we sampled.

Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer. She writes about the wine panel the last Wednesday of most months.

Blythe Beck: executive chef, Hector's on Henderson

George Howald: Serendipity Wine Imports

Paul Pinnell: Owner and general manager, Dali Wine Bar & Cellar

James Tidwell: certified wine educator and sommelier at Café on the Green, The Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas

Cathy Barber: Taste, editor

Tina Danze: freelance writer

($18.99, widely available)

Blackstone Winery, known for its budget wines, recently released a line of Sonoma reserve wines that are a step up in price and quality. This soft, fruity wine has light spice and oak notes that worked well with the smoked turkey. "The texture of the wine and the texture of the turkey are perfectly matched," said James Tidwell. "The weights are equal, and all of the flavors meld." "I love it with both the white and the dark meat," said Blythe Beck. Paul Pinnell noted that the wine should be served slightly chilled. "It's really good with the gravy and the dark meat." George Howald put the fine point on the pairing: "It's pleasurable to go back and forth, tasting and drinking. Between the food and the wine, the flavors don't fight at all."

(Widely available, $19.99 to $24.99)

Rodney Strong was among the first producers to plant pinot noir in the Russian River Valley, one of the most acclaimed growing regions for the varietal. This is a well-made wine, with bright fruit, toasty vanilla and spice notes, and nice structure. "The spicebox flavors of the wine really pick up the pepper and smoke in the turkey," said Mr. Tidwell. He added that the wine has "beautiful finesse, with enough power to stand up to the meat." Mr. Howald noted that "the brightness of the fruit sort of lifts up your palate; it's cleanly refreshing between bites." Mr. Pinnell and Ms. Beck remarked that the wine both complements and stands up to the smoke and spice of the turkey. "It will go well with herbs like sage that may be in the stuffing," added Mr. Pinnell. "It's a very complementary wine for Thanksgiving."

($11.99-$12.99, widely available)

With black cherry and plum flavors, smooth mouth feel and soft tannins, this wine handled the turkey admirably. "It blends well with the seasonings without getting lost," said Ms. Beck. "The food and the wine play nicely together." Mr. Pinnell hailed it as "a soft wine that complements the turkey and goes with anything on the Thanksgiving plate." Mr. Howald and Mr. Tidwell were more reserved with their praise. "It's hard to find fault with this wine," said Mr. Howald. "It may not be the most thrilling match, but overall it's an enjoyable, tasty experience." Mr. Tidwell agreed. "It works well with everything, though it doesn't stand out." Overall, it's a well-priced, easy-drinking choice.

($16.50, Pogo's; Central Market, Dallas and Plano; Beverage City; select Goody Goody and Centennial stores; Whole Foods Market in Plano carries the 375 ml)

This is Qupé's 25th year of making this syrah, and the winery deems the 2006 bottling its best to date. This year, for the fourth year in a row, it made Food & Wine magazine's list of best syrahs for less than $20. It boasts ripe, rich fruit balanced by acidity. "It's got lush fruit, and no harsh tannins. It's smooth and velvety, with hints of raspberry," said Mr. Pinnell. "The pepper and ripe, elegant fruit in the wine work well with the pepper and smoke of the turkey," noted Mr. Tidwell. "It has an intense blast of fruit up front that fades quickly," noted Mr. Howald. "It handles the smoke and the overall complexity of the meal well."

($11.99, Whole Foods Market; Central Market in Plano; Corner Wines in Plano)

This rich, fruity wine comes from Australia's oldest family-owned winery, located in the Barossa Valley. Mr. Tidwell declared it "a rich alternative to pinot noir." He praised its "rich cranberry and spice flavors," that complemented the turkey, adding that the lush texture works well with the meat. "It's got the soft, luscious, round flavors that I'm looking for with the Thanksgiving meal," said Mr. Pinnell. Mr. Howald called the wine a solid choice. "It's hard to imagine this wine not getting a good response from the guests at the table."

($11.99, available at most locations of major liquor-store chains, and some supermarkets)

This dry, Old World-style, 100 percent tempranillo beat out another popular crianza made by Marqués de Riscal. Unlike California reds, the ripe red-fruit flavor is more restrained. "I can't imagine anyone not liking this wine; it's flavorful and balanced," said Mr. Pinnell. He and Mr. Tidwell found it a more neutral pairing compared with some of the other reds. "This wine has some of the bright fruit of the barbera [previously sampled], but does not make the same match," said Mr. Tidwell. Mr. Howald pointed out that the wine benefits from being bottle-aged (a requirement for crianzas). "It's deliciously elegant; it's aged, and ready to drink and enjoy." Ms. Beck said, "I love it, even if it gets a little lost with the smoke."

(Widely available, $18.99)

With its buttery pear and citrus flavors laced with oak, this popular chardonnay made a great match. "It has a nice richness that stands up to the smoked turkey," said Mr. Pinnell. "It's neutral, but it has body." Mr. Tidwell added that "the oak and smoky turkey marry well, creating an even better taste." Ms. Beck agreed; she liked the wine better with the meal than on its own. "I love the oak with the smoke." Mr. Howald called this wine "an easy choice for the Thanksgiving meal," especially for fans of California chardonnay ­ "and there are still plenty."

($16.99, Pogo's; Chateau Wine Market; Mr. G's in Plano; Farpointe Cellar in Southlake)

We included this wine for breast-meat eaters looking for an alternative white to chardonnay. Although it didn't contrast much with the turkey, it's an easy-to-drink wine – a safe choice. Think of it as the wine guaranteed to offend no one. It's a pleasant wine with citrus and mineral flavors and a clean, dry finish. "This grüner veltliner is more delicate than some, but it goes with the white meat because it doesn't have overwhelming flavor intensity. I think it's too delicate for dark meat," said Mr. Tidwell. "It's not offensive, but it doesn't add much to the turkey." Mr. Pinnell thought it would work well with a side dish that includes pineapple or nuts. If you favor white meat and don't like chardonnay, this is a safe option.