Food/Recipes

It's not easy to sample wine very seriously when one's tongue is securely in cheek. But in the battle for retail shelf space – and the all-important women's market – a high-concept label is essential.

Which probably explains why some winemakers have strayed into irreverent, if psychologically dodgy, domestic territory.

First, there's Mommy's Time Out, a 70/30 blend of Italian garganega and pinot grigio ($8.99 at Central Market). The front of the 2005 white wine's label depicts a chair facing the corner, with a small table bearing a wineglass and bottle.

The back says: "We all know that being a Mommy is a difficult job. A Mommy's Time Out is a well-deserved break. This wine is delicate and fruity..." etc., along with the surgeon general's warning.

Then there's Mad Housewife 2004, available in chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and merlot ( madhousewifecellars.com; $7.99 at World Market). Each California variety's label depicts a specs-wearing, faux '50s-era hausfrau posing in pink and pearls.

The back of the label says: "Somewhere near the cool shadows of the laundry room. Past the litter box and between the plastic yard toys. This is your time. Time to enjoy a moment to yourself. A moment without the madness. The dishes can wait. Dishes be damned."

Is that a merlot or a manifesto?